Ireland is a land of rugged coastlines, rolling green hills, and charming towns that feel both timeless and alive. The Atlantic coast in particular feels wild and wonderful, with every corner offers breathtaking scenery, warm hospitality, and unforgettable experiences. This trip left us inspired, relaxed, and in love with Ireland.
We landed at Shannon Airport just after 6 AM, ready to begin our Irish adventure. Our first stop was Sunflower Bakery in Limerick, where we grabbed coffee, pastries, and a delicious hot chocolate — the perfect pick-me-up after the overnight flight.
Next, we drove to Blarney Castle, arriving shortly after it opened. The gardens were peaceful and beautifully kept, and we spent some time wandering before exploring the castle itself. We walked up the winding, narrow staircase and waited about twenty minutes to kiss the famous Blarney Stone — a slightly awkward experience, given that you have to lean backward over a gap and that it isn’t exactly wiped down between visitors. Still, it felt like one of those iconic experiences you have to try once.
From there, we continued on to Durrus, where we stayed with family in the countryside. The house had incredible views and the kind of quiet that instantly slows you down. After a home-cooked meal and some much-needed relaxation, we turned in early to catch up on sleep and start adjusting to Ireland time.
Rested and ready to explore, we set out with family to discover the Mizen Head Peninsula. The day began with coffee and pastries from Amar’s Café in Schull, a cozy little spot that quickly became a favorite.
Our next stop was Barleycove Beach, and it completely exceeded expectations. We hadn’t pictured soft, golden sand beaches in Ireland, but there it was — a wide, peaceful stretch of coastline framed by rolling dunes. The water was predictably cold, but the scenery more than made up for it, and we took our time wandering and soaking it all in.
From there, we continued to the Mizen Head Signal Station. We didn’t know quite what to expect, but the views were absolutely stunning — dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and a striking footbridge connecting the headlands. The weather was perfectly clear, which made the whole experience even better. There’s also a small lighthouse museum on site that offers some fascinating background on the history of the station.
Next up was lunch in Crookhaven, at O’Sullivan’s Bar, which proudly claims to be the most southwesterly pub in Ireland. The food lived up to the hype — hearty seafood chowder and an open-faced crab sandwich with generous portions. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, with outdoor seating right on the water and a perfectly poured pint of Murphy’s to top it off.
On the drive back, we made a quick detour to Canty’s Cove, a “secret” swimming spot tucked away down narrow, unpaved roads. It’s a bit tricky to find, but the reward is a small, crystal-clear cove that looks like something out of a postcard — perfect for a refreshing dip if you’re feeling brave.
We wrapped up the day back at the family’s house, taking a short walk to the nearby Dunbeacon Stone Circle (interesting, but not a must-see), followed by another delicious home-cooked meal and a relaxing evening.
We left beautiful West Cork this morning and made our way toward County Kerry. Our destination for the night was Killarney, which meant we’d get to drive one of the most scenic stretches of the Ring of Kerry along the way.
Our first stop was Maison Gourmet in the town of Kenmare, where we picked up coffee and focaccias to take with us for lunch. While in Kenmare we also had to make a quick stop Lorge Chocolatier for some local sweets. From there, we continued through Moll’s Gap, a gorgeous mountain pass with several great photo stops — especially at the pullouts before and after the gap and later at Ladies View, which offers sweeping vistas as you get closer to Killarney.
We arrived at the Torc Mountain trailhead next — a roughly five-mile hike with about 1,500 feet of elevation gain. The trail was a highlight of the day, offering a great mix of scenery: a waterfall early on, panoramic lake views higher up, and peaceful stretches with very few crowds once we passed Torc Waterfall. The weather wasn’t perfect (it rarely is in Ireland), but the clouds stayed high enough for clear views at the summit. It was cold and windy up top, so we were glad we had packed layers and rain gear.
After the hike, we checked in at Cahernane House Hotel, a beautiful historic property that managed to feel both grand and comfortable, with all the modern touches we could ask for. It also had beautiful views out towards the countryside and really made us feel like we could unplug and relax.
After a quick rinse, we headed out again to visit Muckross House, Gardens, and Abbey, which made for a lovely afternoon walk. The grounds here are massive, so we recommend riding a bike around the grounds if you have the opportunity.
Later, we dropped off our rental car and borrowed bikes from the hotel to ride into town for dinner at Porterhouse Restaurant. The meal was good — not outstanding, but satisfying. The honey and brie garlic bread was the standout dish, while the lamb shank and seafood chowder were solid as well. We finished the meal with ice cream from Murphy’s Ice Cream, which definitely lived up to its reputation.
A staff member at Murphy’s suggested we check out The Killarney Grand for drinks and live music, and it turned out to be a great call. The pub had a lively atmosphere, good pints, and fantastic local music.
As we left the pub, we noticed a growing crowd in town — everyone was waiting for County Kerry’s Gaelic football team to arrive as part of their All-Ireland Senior Football Championship victory parade. We didn’t stay long enough to see the team (they were running late), but it was still fun to witness the energy and pride of the locals.
We ended the night with a peaceful bike ride back to our hotel, ready to rest up for the next day’s adventure on the Dingle Peninsula.
We started the morning with a delicious breakfast at our hotel — included with our stay and absolutely worth it. The smoked salmon benedict was especially good, and the whole experience was relaxed and elegant, a perfect start to the day.
After breakfast, we set off on our Dingle Peninsula day trip. The first stretch of the drive follows part of the Ring of Kerry, so there can be a bit of traffic early on, but it quickly thins out once you turn off toward Dingle.
Our first stop was Inch Beach, a vast expanse of sand that stretches for miles. On a clear day it’s supposed to be spectacular, though we weren’t quite so lucky with the weather. Still, it was nice to get out and walk along the shore for a few minutes.
Next up was Minard Castle, a small coastal ruin perched above the water. The road to get there is narrow and winding, and while you can’t actually explore the ruins, it’s still a great photo stop — especially with the dramatic clouds rolling in.
We then drove through Dingle town and began the famous Slea Head Drive, the most scenic stretch of the peninsula. Even with overcast skies, the views were incredible — rugged cliffs, winding roads, and glimpses of the Atlantic around every bend.
We stopped at Ventry Bay Beach and the Cross at Slea Head before parking at Coumeenoole Beach, our favorite stop of the day. The beach itself is lovely, but the real highlight was hiking up and over the cliffs to Dunmore Head, a filming location from Star Wars: The Last Jedi. We hadn’t realized that before arriving, but the cinematic landscape made it easy to see why it was chosen — and why it drew a few more visitors than the other stops.
Our next stop was Dunquin Pier, another beautiful spot with incredible cliffside views. We also discovered the Cupan Se food truck nearby, which served amazing brownies and rich hot chocolate — a perfect treat for a chilly Irish afternoon.
After Dunquin, we made a brief stop at Clogher Strand (pretty, but not a must-see) before continuing toward Gallarus Oratory. On the way, we noticed West Kerry Brewery and couldn’t resist stopping. It turned out to be a great decision — a cozy, charming spot with excellent craft beer and a friendly bartender who somehow knew his NBA storylines better than most Americans.
From there, we continued to Gallarus Oratory, an ancient stone chapel with fascinating history. A quick tip: you can park along the main road and walk up for free rather than paying the entrance fee at the visitor center.
By the time we finished exploring, we were ready for lunch, so we headed back into Dingle town and grabbed a table at The Fish Box. The place was packed (always a good sign), and everything we ordered was delicious — crispy fried seafood, fries, and mushy peas. We’d highly recommend it for a casual but excellent meal.
After lunch, we took the scenic route back to Killarney via Conor Pass. It was too foggy for the famous panoramic views, but we still stopped for a few photos and appreciated the dramatic landscape before continuing on.
On the way back, we made a detour to the Gap of Dunloe, just west of Killarney. There’s a sign warning that no passenger vehicles are allowed, and while we followed the rule and walked in, most others didn’t. That meant a couple of miles roundtrip on foot to visit the Wishing Bridge, but the view was worth it — especially from the bench overlooking the gap and the lakes.
We returned to the hotel to freshen up and grabbed cocktails at the hotel’s cellar bar, which had excellent drinks but a pretty quiet vibe (understandable for early evening on a weekday). Later, we biked into town for a light dinner at Tango Street Food — pizza and an alfajor for dessert. The pizza was well made, though next time we’d probably skip the goat cheese pie in favor of something more classic.
To wrap up the night, we returned to The Killarney Grand, since we’d enjoyed it so much the night before. The music wasn’t quite as good this time, but the lively atmosphere and perfect pint of Guinness made for a great end to the day before biking back to our hotel.
We finally gave ourselves a relaxing morning after several busy days on the road. Breakfast at the hotel was, once again, excellent — and definitely worth lingering over. After eating, we borrowed the hotel’s bikes for a couple of hours to explore Killarney, which turned out to be a really enjoyable, low-key start to the day.
Our first stop was Ross Castle, a small but well-preserved fortress sitting right on the edge of a peaceful lake. From there, we continued cycling around Ross Island, enjoying the quiet trails before heading back toward town. We made a quick stop at St. Mary’s Cathedral, a striking stone church with beautiful stained glass, and then rode through the Killarney Gardens, where colorful flowers dotted the grounds.
Back at the hotel, we freshened up, checked out, and hit the road. Our first destination was Limerick, which we didn’t explore in depth but immediately got a nice impression of — it felt like a lively college town with plenty of culture, food, and energy.
We stopped for lunch and a pint at Treaty City Brewery. The toasties on the menu sounded like the perfect light lunch… until they arrived. The sandwiches were massive — much bigger than expected — and ended up keeping us full for the rest of the day. Still, the food was good, the beer was great, and the relaxed brewery vibe made it a worthwhile stop.
After lunch, we reluctantly visited King John’s Castle. To be fair, the site doubles as a museum with informative exhibits and some good historical context, but visually it wasn’t especially impressive, and the entry fee felt steep compared to other castles we’d visited (most of which were free). The visit wasn’t entirely voluntary — we’d parked in the castle’s lot before lunch, and using it required that we buy tickets — but at least we made the most of it.
From Limerick, we continued toward the Cliffs of Moher, keeping a close eye on the weather reports that mentioned intermittent fog. Unfortunately, “intermittent” turned out to mean “complete whiteout.” When we arrived, visibility was less than fifty feet, and we couldn’t see a thing. We waited for a while hoping it would clear, but no luck. Fortunately, the staff told us our tickets would be valid for a return visit in the next few days — a nice gesture that made up for the disappointment. To make the visit somewhat worthwhile, we checked out the indoor exhibits and watched a 3D video with a bird’s-eye view of the cliffs, which was surprisingly well done.
The upside of the fog was that we got to Galway earlier than planned, after a quick photo stop at Dunguaire Castle. In Galway, we stayed at Frenchville House B&B, a charming bed and breakfast run by a lovely Irish couple. We loved everything about it — the friendly hosts, the delicious breakfast, the great location, and the constant supply of homemade baked goods.
Once we got settled, we walked to Hooked for dinner. The reviews (and the wait) set our expectations high, but overall the meal was just okay — solid, but not quite at the level of The Fish Box in Dingle. The mussels were the best thing we had there. After dinner, we headed to the Latin Quarter for a night out. We hopped between a few pubs before ending up at The King’s Head, which had good live music and a bit of seating when we arrived (though it filled up quickly). After a few rounds, we walked back to our B&B and spotted something unexpected — dozens of swans sleeping peacefully in the canals, a surprisingly calm and beautiful end to the night.
We woke up to the smell of a truly delicious homemade breakfast at our B&B — the full Irish spread: bacon, sausage, blood sausage, eggs, scones, and more. It was the kind of meal that makes you want to linger a little longer over coffee. Once we were sufficiently stuffed, we packed up and set out toward Connemara.
The weather in Ireland really keeps you on your toes. You can track forecasts, make backup plans, and still be completely at its mercy. We’d planned to do a morning hike to beat the crowds, but when we got to the trailhead, the rain had already beaten us there. So instead, we switched things up and headed straight to Kylemore Abbey.
Even in the drizzle, Kylemore Abbey is breathtaking. The building sits perfectly against the mountainside, its reflection rippling across the lake below. The walled gardens were just as impressive — full of color, symmetry, and life, even on a gray day. We met the famous Kylemore ponies, a couple of pigs, and wandered through an enormous vegetable garden that looked straight out of a period drama. Before leaving, we grabbed a few souvenirs (including some dangerously good fudge) from the gift shop. Kylemore is absolutely a must-visit if you’re anywhere nearby.
By the time we left, the rain had eased up, so we gave hiking another shot. We decided on the Lower and Upper Diamond Hill Loop — about 4.4 miles and 1,300 feet of elevation gain. The trail starts from a nice visitor center with restrooms and a café, and at first, it was all smooth sailing: gentle inclines, sweeping views of green hills, lakes, and the sea in the distance.
Then as we climbed higher, the fog hit. Thick, blinding, Cliffs-of-Moher-style fog. The wind was so intense we were literally holding onto each other for balance. At the summit, visibility was basically zero, but as we descended, the we got below the fog and were rewarded with more great views. It definitely made the whole thing feel earned.
After the hike, we followed our B&B host’s advice and took the scenic drive along Killary Fjord, making a quick stop at Aasleagh Falls. Both were absolutely worth it — and thankfully the skies had cleared up for this portion of our day.
We made it back to Galway later in the afternoon and spent some time exploring the city. Galway has such a great energy — vibrant, creative, and full of charm. We wandered from Eyre Square to the canals, along The Long Walk, and through Galway Cathedral. Everywhere you turn there’s music, color, and life. We both agreed: Galway is one of those cities you instantly fall in love with.
Dinner that night was at Daróg Wine Bar, and wow — what a pleasant surprise. The small plates were fantastic: Irish cheeses, monkfish, scallops, lobster tartlet, sourdough bread — every bite was perfect. It felt cozy and elevated without being pretentious.
After dinner, we went back to the Latin Quarter for another night out. The pubs were absolutely packed again, so we returned to The King’s Head, which by now felt like our go-to. Before calling it a night, we made one last stop at Tig Cóilí to catch a traditional Irish music session — the perfect way to end another unforgettable day.
Thankfully, we got a mulligan with the Cliffs of Moher — and this time, the weather decided to cooperate. The morning was clear and calm, a total 180 from the fogged-in view (or lack thereof) a couple of days earlier. After another delicious Irish breakfast, we left Galway early and hit the road toward the Cliffs.
Even with just a few hours to spare before our flight home, we were determined to make the most of it. The moment we arrived, it was obvious why the Cliffs are one of Ireland’s most famous sights. Stretching endlessly along the coast, the layers of rock drop dramatically into the Atlantic, with the waves crashing below.
We walked nearly the entire cliff path, taking in every angle we could. The views near the lighthouse were the most breathtaking — the kind that make you stop talking and just take it all in. We could’ve easily stayed another hour, just sitting and watching the light shift across the water.
Eventually, we had to pull ourselves away and make the drive to Shannon Airport for our flight home. As we packed up and said goodbye, it really hit us how much we’d loved this trip — the landscapes, the towns, the people, and that unpredictable but charming Irish weather.
All told, it was an incredible week in Ireland — full of adventure, laughter, and memories we’ll be talking about for a long time.
Happy traveling!
Kitrina & Jordan
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