This national forest in New England has some serious hiking trails. There also may be no better place to see the foliage come autumn. Whether you want to see the leaves from a mountaintop or just off the road, you’re bound to leave the White Mountains raving about the colors.
Mount Lafayette and Franconia Ridge Trail Loop
Distance: 12+ miles; Elevation Gain: 3,822 feet; Difficulty: Hard
Wow this hike was hard. AllTrails says the hike is only 8.6 miles, but we aren’t buying it. Our phones and Fitbit logged between 12 and 14 miles. Couple that distance with the elevation gain and you’re in for a great workout.
All that being said – this hike may also have been one of the most rewarding we’ve done. It has a little bit of everything. Waterfalls? Check. Panoramic summit views? Check. Scrambles? Check. COLORS?! Big check.
Before even making your way to the trailhead, there’s a few things you need to know. First off, the parking fills up early. We arrived around 7:15am on a Sunday, and the lot was already 75% full. It’s a big lot too, which shows the trail’s popularity. Another thing to consider is the amount of time you’ll be gone. We usually finish trails on the quicker side, but this one took us 7.5 hours. Pack plenty of water and snacks. The only amenities along the trail are at the AMC Greenleaf Hut, which is about 3/4 of the way through (assuming you go counter-clockwise). We also recommend bringing hiking poles for the way down. It gets wicked steep, so your knees will thank you if you have poles to absorb some pressure. If you get clumsy when you’re exhausted like us, the poles may also stop you from slipping as you go downhill. Lastly, wear layers. Even on a warmer day, the mountaintops can get very cold with the breeze.
Now for the fun stuff! The first portion of the hike is a gradual incline through the woods. Soon after you’ll hit a fork in the trail, with the Falling Waters Trailhead leading you counter-clockwise towards your right. We highly recommend going this way. Falling Waters can get pretty slick, and going downhill there does not seem like fun.
This portion of the trail, though, is beautiful. You’ll follow along a stream for a while that includes a number of miniature waterfalls. After a mile or so, you’ll encounter the hike’s biggest waterfall: Cloudland Falls. With tiers of water flowing over the mountainside, it’s a beautiful sight. A lot of people choose to turn around here, but they’re missing out. The best views are still ahead!
Once you pass Cloudland Falls, the trail starts to get really steep. Don’t feel bad if you need to take breaks on the way up – we took plenty. The next attraction is Shining Rock, which is a 0.1 mile-detour downhill off the main trail. The thought of heading down just to go back up sucks, quite frankly, but we really liked this stop. Shining Rock is a steeply-sloped cliff that glistens from the faint stream of water flowing over it, and it’s incredibly peaceful. Few people opt to take this detour, so we had the overlook more or less to ourselves as we sat on the rock and ate breakfast.
After Shining Rock you’ll make your way to the first of three – yes, three – summits: Little Haystack. Here you’ll get your first panoramic views of the surrounding White Mountains. The vastness is truly spectacular, and if you time it right you’ll also get to appreciate the reds, yellows, and oranges of the surrounding trees. We did the hike on October 4th, and while many of the fall colors were still present, we think they would have been even better had we visited just one week earlier.
Take your time relaxing at Little Haystack, because you have some more climbing to do. It’s just over two miles to get to Mount Lafayette, and you’ll ascend Mount Lincoln on your way there. Both of these summits offer amazing views similar to the ones you get from Little Haystack. The primary difference is atop Mount Lafayette, where you can get a great view looking back at the trail you just conquered.
Honestly, the way down the mountain is a chore. It’s really steep and rocky, so please be careful and take your time. The saving grace is that you can get some great views of the valley beneath the mountain peaks. Your legs will be exhausted at the end of the hike, but the sense of accomplishment (and relief) you’ll feel when you make it back to the parking lot can’t be understated.
Kancamagus Highway
This scenic drive through the national forest is renowned for its leaf peeping opportunities. While there are quite a few trails leaving from this road, we decided to give our legs a rest and focus on the overlooks off the road.
We recommend budgeting at least 2-3 hours to fully enjoy the drive and overlooks along the way. Going from west to east, the first primary stops are right around Kancamagus Pass. All of the overlooks there are fantastic, but our favorites had to be the C.L. Graham Wangan Grounds Scenic Overlook and the Sugar Hill Scenic Vista.
As you approach the eastern end of the highway, you’ll start to approach some state recreation areas that are well worth a visit. Yes, they require a small fee, but that is covered if you have an annual Interagency Park Pass like the America the Beautiful Pass. If you don’t have one of these passes, we recommend budgeting some more time for these stops to make them really worth it.
The first recreation area to visit is Rocky Gorge. This scenic site is great for photos, as the gorge has a small waterfall, picturesque bridge, and colorful trees straddling the river. You also have the opportunity to walk along boulders out on to the river, so it’s a great spot for a picnic if you pack a lunch.
The second recreation area to visit is Lower Falls. Like Rocky Gorge, this site has a small waterfall and a number of boulders that allow you to walk out on to the river. While it is also incredibly picturesque, we preferred the views at Rocky Gorge. If you only have time for one of these two sites, we would recommend going there instead of Lower Falls. After this stop you’ll finish up the drive and arrive at the town of Conway, which has some dining options and gas stations should you need them.
The Basin
For a more relaxing walk through the national forest, look no further than the area around The Basin. This historic site in Franconia Notch State Park, made famous by Henry David Thoreau’s remark that it is โperhaps the most remarkable curiosity of its kind in New England,โ is incredibly serene.
The basin itself resembles a natural whirlpool, with water careening off a smoothed rock formation into the circular pond. We could watch it all day. Around the basin are towering trees, various walking paths, and other ponds or flowing water that make for a really beautiful environment. The site is also super convenient, as the parking lot is right off the highway, and the basin is only a 5-10 minute walk from that lot. It’s a perfect quick stop on your way to or from some of the lengthier hikes in the state park.
Other Tips & Tricks
- Where to Stay: It’s worth noting that White Mountain National Forest is huge. Where you choose to stay will largely depend on what hikes you want to do. If like us you want to be in the western part of the forest, then Lincoln is the place to stay. There are a ton of accommodation and restaurant options, and it is just over 10 minutes to the area’s main hiking trails. We wanted to use our Marriott points, though, so we stayed a bit further down the highway at the Fairfield in Plymouth. This town also has a decent number of dining options, and it is still just 25 minutes from the forest’s main attractions. There are also plenty of campsites in the forest, but be mindful of the weather before going that route. It can get very cold.
- Where to Eat: We didn’t get takeout from too many restaurants during this trip, but the highlight had to be Foster’s Boiler Room. This restaurant in The Common Man Inn & Spa has delicious burgers and sandwiches. They also serve their sweet potato fries with maple syrup, which was dangerously good. We also enjoyed our dinner from Thai Smile, but the Pad Thai was better than the Massamun Curry.
- Mount Washington: If Mount Lafayette isn’t enough for you and you want to ascend even higher, then consider visiting Mount Washington. This mountain has the highest peak in northeastern North America at 6,288 feet. It is closer to the eastern side of the forest, though, so you’ll likely want to stay in that area if you intend to do that hike.
Happy traveling!
Kitrina & Jordan
