Referred to as “Europe’s Hawaii”, the Azores are an island chain sitting ~1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal. São Miguel is the largest island of these islands, and it offers a great combination of outdoor adventure, beach life, and charming towns with a traditional European feel. It’s a hidden gem.
Where to Stay
While there are plenty of things to do across all of São Miguel, there are really two primary options for your home base if you want to be close to dining and a variety of day trips: Ponta Delgada and Furnas. Because these two towns are pretty spread out (about 45 minutes driving), we recommend splitting your nights between them. Below we’ve given a summary of each area, and the rest of this post is split by geography to help you better plan your trip!
- Ponta Delgada: This town is the largest on São Miguel, and it has the island’s only major airport. Since you’ll be landing here, we recommend starting your trip in this area too. The town sits on the southwestern side of the island, has a number of great dining options, and is a good home base for visiting the island’s main attractions in the western region. Ponta Delgada also feels more like a typical European city than other towns on São Miguel, with old buildings, narrow streets, and overall beautiful architecture. For a nice hotel just outside the town’s center, we recommend looking at Azor Hotel. This former-Marriott property has modern finishes along with beautiful ocean views, and it is just a 10-15 minute walk from the heart of Ponta Delgada.
- Furnas: This unique town in eastern São Miguel, above all else, is known for hot springs stemming from the active volcanic complex on which the town sits. While much smaller than Ponta Delgada, Furnas still offers its fair share of restaurants and has a number of tourist-friendly activities. It’s just a completely different environment than its western neighbor. Whereas Ponta Delgada offers beautiful ocean views, Furnas has more of a mountainous topography. While here we stayed at Furnas Boutique Hotel (another former Marriott property), and we’d definitely recommend it. The hotel was noticeably older than Azor Hotel when we visited in July 2018, but it has an on-property hot spring and spa that you can use for free. It’s a great, relaxing way to unwind after a day of hikes in the area.
Ponta Delgada and Western São Miguel
Things to Do
- Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Lake of the Seven Cities): If you google the Azores, the first things you’ll see are pictures of Lagoa das Sete Cidades. The crater lakes are postcard-worthy in every sense. There are a number of ways that you can get great views of the area. While you have the option to hike around the lagoon, you can also drive right to the primary viewpoints.
- Miradouro da Vista Do Rei (Viewpoint of the King) ranks as the second best viewpoint of the lakes. While it’s technically along a bridge, you also have the (frowned-upon) option of climbing to the roof of an adjacent abandoned hotel. All it takes is ascending a few spiral staircases and stepping through a pane-less window. Once on the roof, you’ll have a better vantage point to see the lakes and surrounding hills. The hotel itself is a bit creepy and interesting too, as it has a lot of graffiti from years of vandalism.
- Miradouro da Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth Viewpoint) has to be the best viewpoint of the lakes. Honestly, it might be one of the prettiest views we’ve ever seen. The main observation point is just a short walk from the parking area along a picturesque trail, but why rush? We’d recommend grabbing a spot in the adjacent field to sit down, relax, maybe have some drinks, and appreciate your surroundings.
- Igreja de São Nicolau (Church of Saint Nicholas): While in the Sete Cidades area, it is worth making a quick visit to the Church of Saint Nicholas. The walkway leading to the church is beautiful, as is the interior. It’s only a three minute drive from Miradouro da Vista Do Rei.
- Ponta da Ferraria: This is a unique natural hot spring on São Miguel that sits right on the ocean’s edge. The drive here can be slightly intimidating, as you have to go down a very steep, winding, narrow road. Once at the bottom, though, parking is plentiful, and it’s only a short walk over basalt rocks to the pool. For the best experience, visit during low tide. The water then will be great, as you’ll feel a mix of the warmth coming from the hot spring and the cold coming from the ocean. We recommend bringing water shoes to avoid banging up your feet on the rocky floor.
- Mosteiros: This town on the island’s northwestern coast is prime sunset territory. There is a nice, black sand beach that makes for a perfect afternoon, and just off the shore are two large rock formations that help frame the setting sun. Mosteiros also has a number of restaurants, so you can easily grab some dinner there as you wait for the best photo lighting.
- Whale Watching: If you visit São Miguel from April to October, congratulations! You’ve made it during whale watching season. We decided to book a tour through Moby Dick Tours, and we were very happy with our experience. The whole trip lasted just a couple hours, but we were able to see a number of dolphins as well as a sei whale right next to the boat! You also have the option to bring some food and drinks on board.
- Quinta Da Jardinete: This small winery due north from Ponta Delgada has some pretty delicious wines and offers cheap tours (3.60 euros per person) each weekday. Tours come with a glass of wine too, so you’ll get to sample a taste before deciding if you want to buy a bottle. We liked the wines enough that we ended up purchasing a bottle from the vineyard early in our trip and another bottle at a local grocery store later on!
- Ananases A Arruda: This historic pineapple plantation is adorable, for lack of a better word. We had never seen baby pineapples before, but they’re so tiny! It was really cool getting to see the various stages of pineapple growth across the farm’s various greenhouses. It’s free to enter, and they also have a gift shop that sells all types of pineapple products.
- Ponta Delgada: While we recommend Ponta Delgada as a home base for attractions around the island, it is also well worth spending a half-day exploring the city. The Portas da Cidade (City Gates) are a historic site that serve as the city’s primary landmark, and there are also a number of old fortresses straggling the coastline. The city has a noticeably sleepy vibe, so take your time and relax as you wander around.
Where to Eat
- A Tasca: By far our favorite casual dining spot on the island, A Tasca has an awesome collection of tapas. We liked it so much that we visited twice during our four days in Ponta Delgada. Don’t expect the service to be fast (it isn’t anywhere on São Miguel), but the rounds of tapas make it easy to eat over an extended period of time and enjoy the relaxing experience. Everything on the menu is great, so we suggest asking your server for recommendations.
- Gastrónomo: For a higher-end dining experience, we definitely recommend Gastrónomo. It was definitely one of our top two favorite restaurants on the island. The atmosphere is a bit misleading, as the restaurant looks like a small, casual spot without much fuss. The food, though, justifies the price tag. We really liked this restaurant because they let you pick out your own fresh seafood and request that the kitchen cook it your favorite style. This is a great place to be adventurous and choose a fish you’ve never tried before, as everything is caught fresh just off the island’s shore. You also don’t want to skip the shellfish appetizers or desserts because they are fantastic.
- Casa da Rosa: This restaurant is another solid option for tapas and wine. While we didn’t like it quite as much as A Tasca, we still left impressed by the ambiance and delicious food. The ceviche had to be our favorite dish here, and the restaurant is conveniently located in the heart of Ponta Delgada.
- Bagga: For a quick and convenient breakfast option, we definitely recommend Bagga. This bakery and cafe has a number of tasty to-go options that will travel well as you head out on your day trips. If you want to relax and enjoy your breakfast, there is also plenty of seating and a calming vibe. Plenty of locals come here to grab a bite and start their day.
Furnas and Eastern São Miguel
Things to Do
- Salto do Prego: This beautiful loop hike features a nice waterfall, lush vegetation, and an old hillside village. It only stretches 2.3 miles and gains 721 feet of elevation, so it’s a great family-friendly option. We recommend wearing your swimwear so you can appreciate the refreshing pool that sits at the base of the falls. To get to the trail, you’ll need to park along a narrow road that leads to a dead end between two adjacent hills. From there you’ll start a steady climb up one of those hills and into a forested area. It’s only a short trek from there to the main waterfall attraction.
- Terra Nostra Park: Furnas is known for its hot springs, so why not visit one the area’s most famous hot spring landmarks? Terra Nostra is part thermal pools, part hotel, part restaurant, and part gardens. Unless you choose to stay at the hotel, what you really care about are the thermal pools. There are three different pools here, ranging in temperature from 35 to 40 degrees Celsius. For those of us (cough Americans cough) who don’t use the metric system – that’s hot.
- Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego: This lookout point on São Miguel’s east coast features a nice park, stunning ocean views, and lush hillsides. The drive here is a treat, too, as there are a number of scenic lookouts along the coastal highway. Once you make it to the observation area, there are plenty of sitting areas and picnic tables to let you relax as you appreciate the views.
- Lagoa do Congro: This tranquil green lake sits 15 minutes outside of Furnas and offers a nice opportunity to get close to nature. The trail is only 1.4 miles, so it’s really more of a walk than a hike. Still, we really enjoyed the experience and think it’s a great afternoon activity.
Where to Eat
- Volcano-Cooked Cozido: We’re cheating here because this is more of a “What to Eat” than a “Where to Eat”, but there’s a reason for that. The most traditional dish in São Miguel is a cozido, or stew, cooked by burying a pot filled with meat potatoes, etc. underground and using the thermal heat to cook everything. Tony’s Restaurant in Furnas is one of the most famous places to try this dish, so we naturally decided to go there. Let’s just say that … we weren’t impressed. It was just so dry. Maybe that’s how all volcano-cooked cozido tastes and we shouldn’t be blaming Tony’s, but there aren’t many dishes around the world that we’ve ordered and been unable to stomach. We definitely think it’s worth trying the meal somewhere given its significance in the region, but we’d recommend giving it a shot somewhere other than Tony’s.
- SNACK BAR Burger King: Don’t worry – this restaurant isn’t affiliated with the Burger King fast food chain. Instead, it’s a local bar featuring quick, budget-friendly bites. We’re not going to say the burgers here were some of the best we’ve had by any means, but it was nice to find an affordable, tasty meal with fast service. Those proved surprisingly hard to come by in Furnas.
Central São Miguel
Things to Do
In addition to the activities we’ve already detailed, there are a number of things to do in the middle of the island between Ponta Delgada and Furnas. If you choose to change locations in the middle of your trip as we did, then we’d recommend tackling one or two of these bucket list items on your way from one town to the other. If you plan to stay in one place the entire time you’re in São Miguel, these attractions are still not too far from either town.
- Islet of Vila Franca do Campo: Our day trip to this islet was one of our favorite things that we did in São Miguel. Fun fact – the circular lagoon is the result of the crater of an ancient submerged volcano. In addition to being incredibly unique and picturesque, the islet has some great snorkeling and places to sunbathe for the day. You can also get a great view of the entire lagoon by doing a quick climb up the hill on the islet’s backside. To get to the islet, you’ll first need to make your way to Vila Franca do Campo on the mainland. From there you can purchase a ticket to get to the islet via a 5-minute ferry ride. We recommend using the official website to book your ticket in advance. You’ll want to budget at least 2-3 hours to spend on the islet.
- Lagoa do Fogo: São Miguel is filled with gorgeous crater lakes, and Lagoa do Fogo is another one. It also provides a great hiking opportunity, as the out-and-back trek to and around half the lake is 3.9 miles total. It’s nothing too strenuous at all. We really enjoyed packing some sandwiches to have lunch as we relaxed along the lake’s shore, so we recommend you do the same.
- Centro de Interpretação Ambiental da Caldeira Velha (Caldeira Velha Environmental Interpretation Center): While not as big or famous as Terra Nostra Park, which sits in the heart of Furnas, we think Caldeira Velha is a beautiful and relaxing hot spring destination. The nature preserve features a number of pools of different temperatures, a waterfall, and showers to clean yourself off after the thermal pools. Like Terra Nostra, this park can get a bit crowded, but we still found it to be an overall pleasant experience.
Other Tips & Tricks
- Getting Around: You need a car to get around São Miguel. Sadly, there’s no way around it. Public transportation is highly limited, and it’d be very difficult to get to and from some of the island’s more remote areas. For a budget-friendly and environmentally-conscious rental car option, we recommend going with a Smart car. Honestly, it was incredibly practical for us too, as we routinely had to park in tight spaces. Sure, you’ll get a laugh as you try to accelerate on the highway, but we view that as a positive. The look and sound of the car constantly entertained us during the trip. Just watch out for cows on the road.
- Language Barrier: When we visited back in July of 2018, we didn’t have too much trouble with the language barrier. Most of the tourist businesses like restaurants, tour companies, and attractions spoke English or had English menus, so we don’t think this is anything to worry about. In fact, we’d guess that English has become even more widespread on the island in the last two years as tourism picked up.
- Visiting other Islands: Unfortunately, getting from São Miguel to other islands isn’t super convenient. The only other Azorean island really accessibly by ferry is Santa Maria, and that’s three hours away. Ferries also aren’t super common. That means you’d have to fly from island to island, which can get pricey quickly. If you plan to be on vacation for two weeks, then we’d say visiting another island is definitely worth it, but we found São Miguel had plenty to keep us busy for our week-long stay.
Happy traveling!
Kitrina & Jordan
